Відео

Approximately 3 months

I have no complaints with the auto tech flywheel, engine revs up a bit quicker now. If you're building for HP, I'd keep the stock flywheel.

This was a 2014

@@vdawg0003 why did you sell ??

About 3 months, a few hours a day in the evening or when I had time

I can't say 100% I recall running into that. This was about 5 years ago. I'm sure the wires can be rerouted if they're in the way of the tank.

I don't do this for a living. As much as I'd like to do that on the side, it's a very time consuming project, and I've got my hands full with family, work and other hobbies

Hermano saludos yo tengo uno igualito al tullo nomás le pusistes esa punta o le isistes algo más ​@@vdawg0003

I don't have a documented list of parts but when doing a complete engine rebuild, the obvious components to consider are: -All gaskets and seals -Timing components -main and rod bearings -hardware(TTY bolts) -piston rings -lifters -spark plugs -clutch I'm probably missing some, but just to give you an idea. If doing upgraded parts, it obviously adds on to the list; cams and HD springs, flywheel, etc.

Yes it works since you're keeping the original fuel pump

@@vdawg0003 thanks my friend!

Not really, it cleared most technical rocky areas, just a matter of picking a good line. The bash plate does the job though for the times when you scrape clearing over bigger rocks

@@vdawg0003 thanks for the reply! I have a '22 CB500X and I was considering this trip, but that was my biggest concern.

Swap the 250l for the 450l. Unless you already have a cbr300r engine sitting around.

Search up HumbleMechanic, he has all sorts of VR6 specific how-to videos including timing. The 12v is fairly simple to time, just need to buy the alignment tool to lock in the cams.

I unfortunately do not do this for a living, I consider it a hobby. If I had an appropriate size garage to accommodate for doing projects like this I think I would do it more often.

@@vdawg0003 so sick man i have a 2001 mk4 gti and i need to do the timing. i did the water pump ab 2 weeks ago now by myself and that was the first time really digging into a car motor. do you think it would be a good or a bad idea if i were to do it this next winter maybe?

@@jomommafoldin3000 if you have the tools, time and another daily driver, go for it. You'll learn more about the engine this way as well as develop new skills. Use online resources - youtube, forums, facebook groups - no shortage of VR6 content.

12v

If referring to the downpipe - you'll need a long extension to go from underneath the car for like 4 of the bolts. After removing the intake manifold and exhaust manifold heatshield you should be able to have enough clearance to reach over the top to get the other 2 or 3 bolts.

It depends on what you've already done in the last 100k miles. If I'm doing an overhaul, I wouldn't cut corners and spend that extra bit of money while you're in there. -timing chains and components -all gaskets, seals -knock sensors, crank and cam position sensors -spark plugs, ignition wires -clean valves -inspect main and rod bearings, replace if needed -water pump -inspect cylinder walls, hone if necessary -inspect piston rings and clearances, replace if needed. -upgrade cooling system components (crackpipe, thermostat housing, hoses, radiator) -engine mounts -general cleaning of oil channels, carbon build etc

Everything rubber or Plastic that is not fresh.

I've worked on a Audi 4.2 V8 before and this seemed like a breeze in comparison, gotta love German engineering

It technically wasn't even 50cc, but it was fun and now Honda makes a crf300l so no one has to do this project 😁

I got the 034motorsport street density mounts from FCPeuro

What kind of sound? Can you elaborate a bit more?

@@vdawg0003 The sound is a tapping or rattling noise that comes from only the passenger side of the car (Canadian spec, so passenger side is the front right) or the serpentine belt area of the car. When you cold start the car, it becomes apparent right away as the sound changes with RPM. Once it warms up to operating temperature, the sound disappears completely. I have pulled the valve cover and checked the lifters and cams, no wear at all to indicate a stuck lifter. My power steering pump does squeal pretty loudly under low speed turns, I’ve replaced the serpentine belt tensioner thinking that was the cause but it made no difference. When I pulled the belt off and span each pulley, no issues apart from the alternator pulley which would spin two ways with no issue. As far as I know, being a clutched pulley it should only spin one way and the other shouldn’t. Also, as of summer of 2021 the ac compressor clutch stopped working as well. Timing chains have been done and water pump was replaced at 160k kms, car is at 219k km now. The clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing and shift fork all replaced as well at 190k km. The sound has been apparent for the last two years, hasn’t impacted the performance of the car at all, it has never overheated, no timing chain/guide noise. I really don’t know what it could be. Whenever I take it to a mechanic, the sound disappears and there’s nothing they can do because they don’t hear it at all.

Thanks man. The bottom end is stock, I didn't upgrade the pistons, just cleaned them up and replaced rings. Yea I'd say there's definitely a difference with some of those upgrades, however an ecu tune is what takes advantage of the upgrades. I'm running a stage 2 and had that before doing this rebuild and it definitely feels more alive, better throttle response and better power up top. It's by no means significantly faster. If I wanted power, I would have went forced induction, but that wasn't my goal or in my budget. Hope that helps

Yea mostly coolant hoses, alot of the extra vacuum lines from the SAI were deleted.

Roughly 2k, but that factors in subframe, control arms, tools and materials for the job as well.

You can probably do it for alot less if just refreshing top end and bottom end. I had some performance parts in there too, cams, springs, downpipe, high flow cat, engine mounts, etc. It's one of those "while I'm in there" things that have a tendency to be a snowball effect

Running stage 2 tune from BDT - boostdynamictuning.com/

Thanks for watching. I think most of the questions have been answered in the comments or in the video description. What questions did you have?

@@vdawg0003 thanks for the answer! My CRF has a complete FMF system and rather than that os stock. The gearing is 15-40 and i dont feel that the bike has gain much power. It vibrates a lot Over +-55/60mph and the fuel milage is a bit worse (4,5L/60miles) going easy on the throtle. So its really horrible for highway and it doesnt have enough power for me to install a 15-38 gearing. Im desperate to "find" all This power without making more fuel consumption. I steel have the original exhaust from the CBR 300r and its quite bigger than the FMF One! Would a customised (with more diameter) header be a good option? Would it rather be better to make a hole on the airbox? I have an ejk with the 250L specs and i can put the 300 specs and see how it goes...

Thanks, yes people boost these, I'm not there yet 😁

Thanks, I'm not too sure on the HP numbers, I have never dyno'd it. Currently running a stage 2 tune with supporting mods so I'd be happy if it was near 200 whp.

Please check the description section of this video, I listed all the parts required to swap from the cbr300r along with part numbers.